Dining In Derbyshire – The Bulls Head, Holymoorside
Nestled in the centre of Holymoorside on the west side of Chesterfield. The Bulls Head, has over the past 9 years become the go to place for fine dining. Travelling there on a sunny Saturday evening we passed along country lanes Nestled in the centre of Holymoorside on the west side of Chesterfield. The Bulls Head, has over the past 9 years become the go to place for fine dining. Travelling there on a sunny Saturday evening we passed along country lanes with names such as, Cotton Mill Hill, Bage Hill, Loads Road and Chandler Hill Lane all hinting at the fact that we were arriving at a village with real history. Just around the corner from The Bulls Head, which first opened its doors in 1881, was the Manlove owned Cotton mill which made cotton thread spun onto its own bobbins. Sadly the sound of the mill wheel turning no longer exists as the village throbs to the new sounds of its residents. And so we arrived at this lovely village that holds so many childhood memories for me. We were booked in at 6:00, knowing that to fully enjoy the experience we needed the whole evening. A 9 course tasting menu is very different from any other way of dining out I can think of. If you are put off by the thoughts of 9 courses being too much, then don’t be. The idea is to enjoy small plates of differing dishes, prepared and presented by an excellent chef, and to learn about the intriguing and sophisticated methods and ingredients that are used to prepare and present them. We sat in the bar, a rustic area which still very much has the feel of the old Bulls Head, and scanned the menu for the evening. We realised at this point that to fully appreciate the experience we needed the input of the well informed staff. If you enjoy a good wine then the thirty nine page drinks menu will really delight you. I asked Mark and then Tom our waiter, to recommend a wine and their choice was superb. The choice of wines from a round the world is truly amazing, with descriptions of taste and provenance on each page. With a good glass of red in hand, in our case a very smooth 7 grape variety, we were served with 2 thin slices of Spanish style chorizo and 2 slices of bresaola, both made in house and hung for 3/4 months. My favourite dish followed next; flaked Cornish crab with lemon, sweet and fresh with saffron wild rice and a pear and gooseberry dressing, Cavair and sprinkled with foraged petals. Then came my husband’s favourite; a dish of ham and egg, the egg very runny with a toasted brioche to dip, and crunchy smoked bacon crumbs on top. Sea trout followed; lightly barbecued with tomatoes serve in every way imaginable. The sea fingers added a salty crunch and the Nduja sauce brought the whole dish together. Nduja by the way is a south Italian sausage with fennel and chilli, this really was an education. I noticed that like myself, many of the diners were unfamiliar with hoggot. Hoggot, is born as lamb then becomes mutton at 12 months, then becomes hoggot when it’s had itsfirst children, as it’s raised for breeding it has a far better quality of life and flavour. Cooked slowly on the barbecue this was a meat that melted in your mouth. The minted pea purée and pearl drop of burnt lemon gel enough accompaniment with a dark jus which had a hint of cardamom. Moving to desserts and a refined take on rice pudding, cooked in coconut milk, Fig Leaf and orange this formed a base for the blackcurrant sorbet. Yogurt with pine infused sugar provided the final flourish executed by the chef at the table. Cooled to minus 200 degrees it immediately froze to be crushed into a yogurt crumble, leaving a great fresh and clean taste to the palate. And finally a chocoholics delight, decorated with edible gold and glazed hazelnuts, filled with white and dark chocolate. A strong coffee finished the evening perfectly with Petit Fours. Each course is served with an explanation of the dish which really does enhance your enjoyment and helps you to identify all the subtle nuances of flavours. The dishes vary according to both the season and what is available to be foraged and so the menu is varied. In addition to the 9 course taster menu there is a reduced version of 5 courses as well which is great. For a full breakdown of the Signature tasting, A La carte and Sunday lunch menus please visit the web site. The Bulls Head is in the Michelin guide and has 3 AA rosettes. Mark Aisthorpe is patron chef who in 2022 appeared on BBC’s Great British Menu reaching the regional final. His enthusiasm is contagious and his passion inspirational. His staff are well trained , polite and very friendly which makes for a relaxed and pleasant experience. After our meal Mark invited us into the engine room of the business to see how things work backstage and show us how the recently installed gleaming new stainless steel kitchen, functioned. It always amazes us how so much can be produced for a room full of diners in such a short time. Having all the equipment obviously helps but you need the staff to pull it all together on time and it was great to see them all at the end of a busy evening, albeit looking a bit tired, but satisfied with a job well done. 00
Dining In Derbyshire – The Bulls Head, Holymoorside
On first glance, The Bulls Head appears your typical, traditional pub; four square it hunkers down comfortably in the centre of Holymoorside, a delightful village on the moor-side of Chesterfield. Just a scenic 20 minutes or so away from the Amber Valley, it’s an area I’m well acquainted with from my childhood and easily accessible. Through the old door the general bar area belies the restaurant beyond and the food on offer here. Please don’t underestimate the experience you are about to embark on, as it truly is a remarkable journey and one that would comfortably sit in a high-end London restaurant, but which we were to enjoy much closer to home. The restaurant area has a simple decor in deep muted shades, with wooden tables well-spaced. Greeted by the friendly smile of Sharron Stone the sommelier, we were shown to our table and drinks order taken. From here we embarked on our epic journey through the 9 courses of the special taster menu, Mark Aisthorpe, head chef and owner truly at the helm in the kitchen. You’d be forgiven for thinking the name is familiar as Mark has appeared on BBC’s 2022 Great British menu as runner up in the northeast and Yorkshire heat. Mark has also worked with Gordon Ramsey and Marcus Wareing at Clivedon House and Petrus, so has an impressive pedigree. Beginning with a selection of Canapes, the deconstructed chicken wing coated with a sticky BBQ sauce and sesame seeds was soft, succulent and a gentle start to awaken our taste buds, the finely chopped venison tartare was richer with a tangy citrus flavour mellowed by the crunch of the diced turnip and served in its own pastry case, cheese and pickled walnut gougères, delivered by one of the chefs Joe Stubbs, completed a perfect trio. Amie Foster, restaurant manager, gave us an excellent description of each course as it arrived, and certainly had a great understanding of every dish. The most delicious, warm malted bread arrived with quenelles of salted butter and marmite butter, wow what a simple idea but inspired. Then a small but perfectly formed potato topped with sliced baby leeks, sprinkled with tiny crisp and airy pork puffs was surrounded in a deep flavoured dulse sauce. Dulse is both very healthy as it’s packed with Iron and proteins, but also adds a rich saltiness. The following course and perhaps my most favourite was the hand dived King scallop; cooked to perfection with tiny brown shrimps, roe which popped in your mouth and a beautifully balanced sabayon sauce. Next, the shredded ham, finished with a warm egg yolk and brioche served separately, was followed by another outstanding fish course. West coast Bass, with a crisp skin and firm flesh found its traditional complement in an asparagus spear, but with the clean taste of sea vegetable fingers, samphire and mussels the wild garlic sauce took it to another level. Spring lamb with its caramelised skin and juicy pink centre was served with a jus and a morel mushroom whose nutty flavour partnered the meat. Rounding out the dish was a carrot and a pea puree. Finishing with a spectacular flourish Mark arrived and set up a side table for his performance, juggling liquid nitrogen, to produce a desert fitting to crown our evening… but I think rather than trying the impossible task of describing it, I will leave it a secret for you to discover for yourselves!! …and just when we were ready for a little something sweet a clever selection of dark chocolate desserts arrived, crunchy, cooling, smooth, intense and spongy all not overly sweet and on one plate…. just desert heaven!! You may wonder what Mark’s ethos is behind this imaginative menu, simply put it is local produce, fresh and in season alongside foraged ingredients, to produce a refined modern British Cuisine. This is not an evening to rush, the relaxed atmosphere at the Bulls Head slowed us down to enjoy each step of this exceptional culinary experience. Tasting each nuance of flavour, some familiar and some not so brought a unique experience. We would like to thank Mark and all his staff for a most delightful evening, and the tour of the newly refurbished bedrooms afterwards. His hard work, enthusiasm and undoubted talents have rewarded Derbyshire with an outstanding venue. 00
Dining In Derbyshire – MEZZO, Derby
To the south east of Derby, sandwiched between the River Derwent and the old A6 London Road is a vast area of former industrial land that had been part of the larger railway yards. An ambitious project by Derby City Council has transformed the once derelict area in to a thriving business park. The site now hosts offices, from family run to multi-national retail outlets, glitzy car showrooms, Pride Park Stadium – the home of Derby County FC, a nature reserve and the eye catching Derby Arena. Plus many eateries. One of these restaurants, tucked away on a quiet road in the shadow of the Arena, is Mezzo; our destination for a midweek lunch. Susan and myself were looking forward to lunch with the promise of something a little bit different. It was our first visit to Mezzo and although I’d read and seen online how the food was presented we were still a little unsure. We needn’t have worried. First timers, like ourselves, are nothing new and the helpful staff explained the simple lunchtime procedure. Mezzo’s lunchtime service is a pick ’n’ mix buffet. In place of plates the restaurant uses bowls that can be disposed of in the recycling bin. There are four sizes: from extra small to large. The emphasis is on healthy eating. Everything on the menu is cooked fresh daily and from scratch, using quality natural ingredients. Nothing is bought in pre-made or processed. I picked up a medium bowl and selected the chicken breast. I passed the hot selections and went to the 20 dishes on offer at the cold buffet. With every intention of keeping my bowl looking beautiful I added a large scoop of potato salad and then two scoops of the vibrant green mixed salad; a mixture of peas, broad beans, rocket, mange tout and broccoli. A scoop of red cabbage winter coleslaw filled any gaps I had left. I had avoided the delicious looking dishes of chickpeas and the one of couscous but I found room for a few little extras: pickled gherkins, sliced tomato and sliced red onion. All the dishes are labeled on the glazed guard above the buffet bar. From a selection of dressings including mayo, yoghurt and mint, balsamic plus a honey and mustard, I chose the classic French. Every flavour and texture element of the green salad wasn’t lost; from the crunch of the mange tout to the peppery hit from the rocket. Susan picked up a small bowl and selected the salmon, a generous, plump fillet, and made her selection from the hot trays. She chose the baby new potatoes; unpeeled they were full of flavour. Teriyaki noodles, couscous and wild rice were also available. The latter would have been perfect with the curry that is one of the lunch dishes. Susan topped her dish up with a scoop of mixed vegetables: cauliflower, leeks, peas, carrots, fine beans and cavolo nero. And topped it off with dressing of yoghurt and mint. The combination was traditional, generous and packed with flavour. All of the proteins are cooked naturally; nothing added. My generous portion of chicken breast was steamed. It was moist and full of flavour. Susan’s salmon had been oven baked on a pan fried setting. The fish was flavourful and everything you’d expect: the flesh fell apart in pale pink flakes and a perfect crispy, crunchy skin. Also available are roasted falafel, and griddled halloumi. At a table close to us sat a group of five women wearing fleeces emblazoned with Great Britain Cycling Team. I asked how they were enjoying the Arena and lunch at Mezzo. They all agreed that the food was tasty and, very important to them, healthy. Although there are no desserts, for those of us with a sweet tooth there’s a selection of homemade sweet treats. The generous lunch portions had filled us but we couldn’t leave without any of the tempting chocolate goodies. A large piece of rocky road with shortbread (or is it tiffin?) scattered over with tiny marshmallows and an equally large piece of millionaire’s shortbread where acquired for later. In the evening the buffet style service is replaced with bowls assembled to order. The same tasty, fresh ingredients are put together in the restaurant’s kitchen and look far more elegant than my chicken salad stack! Mezzo was started in 2012 by Skevy and her partner, David. Skevy trained at Richard Corrigan’s Michelin starred restaurant in London and has spent her working career in the hospitality industry. Their philosophy at Mezzo is ‘eat well, love life’ and this is reflected in great tasting food. The restaurant is licensed and offers a range of drinks from flavoured water to beers and wine. Mezzo’s location on Victoria Way is ideal; easy to get to, yet away from the busy through roads and a stones throw from the Derby Arena. There’s allocated parking outside the restaurant. Alternatively, at the rear of the restaurant is the Arena with it’s huge car park. By arrangement you can park there free for 3 hours. Just enter your vehicle registration details on Mezzo’s tablet in the restaurant. The restaurant’s contemporary decor leans towards the industrial with exposed brickwork, large exaggerated filament light bulbs and comfortable seating reminiscent of a vintage American diner. And large windows flood the interior with natural day light. The restaurant is one of a number of small businesses in a row of new retail units. The ‘new build’ allows for easy wheelchair access. At the front of the premises there’s an extensive area dedicated to outdoor seating. The winter months may not be ideal for al fresco dining but the sturdy, clean benches are under a transparent canopy and catch the sun; taking advantage of their south westerly aspect. While we sat and enjoyed our lunch I noticed that there was a brisk takeaway service. For the carry-out the bowls are supplied with a lid and wooden cutlery. Also, you can order online for a local home or
Hidden Gem of Food & Drink – The Boot, Repton
Turning the corner onto Boot Hill in Repton, the self-proclaimed capital of Mercia, I immediately thought “I should have arrived on a horse!” Everything seemed to be linked to the past and, in all honesty, I love that. The Boot, a 17th Century coaching Inn, is owned, managed and run by people with a fierce passion for what they do… and they’re very good at it. Rewarded for their success with a second AA Rosette in two years is testament to Chef Rob Taylor’s passion for food supported by his highly trained kitchen team who maintain that standard when he isn’t around. At front of house is Manager Rick Graham, who exudes the same enthusiasm for customer care. Drinking a cup of coffee chatting with Rob and Rick I could see that both are keen to keep pushing ‘The Boot’ forward with expansion of the team, more training and menu development. Chef Rob has his own allotment where he grows various things to take home and experiment with, creating new recipes and dishes which he can then introduce to the restaurant when he is satisfied. He is proud to be sourcing food from local suppliers including dry aged beef from Tori and Ben’s Farm Butchery in Melbourne where their sister business ‘Harpurs’ is situated. Rob and Rick have thoroughly enjoyed their three and a half year journey working in tandem and they have a good sense of humour too which I enjoyed. When you book a table it’s yours for the evening should you so wish. They both were quite adamant at this point that those who visit ‘The Boot’ should enjoy the experience from the high quality accommodation to their award -winning food. In for a pint at ‘The Boot’. A highlight too of my visit was to enjoy a pint of beer produced from their own, on site brewery. As creatures of habit, a beer drinker will generally stick to what he knows. When faced with a bar full of pumps with beer names never seen before the mind gets very confused. Various areas of the country sport their own particular ales and tucked behind the ‘The Boot’ is the Boot Micro Brewery from which flows thousands of pints of the finest quality beers which are on sale at ‘The Boot’ Repton, ‘Harpur’s of Melbourne and The Dragon at Willington. Head Brewer Jon Archer took over the brewing just over a year ago. I asked Jon what his background was. He replied “33 years in IT”, I wasn’t expecting that. There’s obviously more to this tale and it transpired that he was an avid home brewer, a skill he developed to replicate brewing at a small commercial level. So, when the offer came from the owners of ‘The Boot’ at Repton, to manage and develop their micro brewery, it was an unmissable opportunity. Home brewing is an art this author never perfected and after two failed attempts and two bouts of illness after drinking it(!) I decided to leave it to the experts and stay firmly on the customer side of the bar. Jon explained the ins and outs of brewing to me and it’s a pretty straightforward process which becomes very complicated when trying to maintain consistency. I was taken aback by the control exercised over brewing a popular beer to maintain consistency and satisfy the regular ‘same pint’ drinker. Asking anyone how they like their beer will elicit numerous replies ‘hoppy, malty, fruity, strong, dark, pale” are among many of the responses, but how do you cater for that on the bar. Much can depend on type of hop, where it comes from, yeast used etc. John selects the finest hops from around the country and from abroad to blend them into great tasting beer. The latest brew ‘Willow’ was launched in April and, as a low alcohol light ale, is harder to brew because low alcohol beers can feel too thin so need building up, but to his credit it has gone really well and is proving extremely popular. I watched as Jon checked the progress of fermentation in stage for the latest batch of ‘Clod Hopper’ which gave me an insight to the accurate records needed to maintain consistency. Ten percent of this, so much of that, this specific temperature and much more. (The exact details are a secret though and not for my eyes!) This is recorded ready for the next batch. Jon shared with me his knowledge of how life works in the Boot brewery, from designing to creating a beer influenced by Jon’s skilled palette which is suitable for production. I smiled as he took me to see and taste a drink in its early stages of creation, of which the base ingredient was rhubarb. I love rhubarb crumble, but I’ve never drunk it! The first taste was quite pleasant and I thought maybe a good drink but then came the next tasting made with a different yeast which took it to a whole different level on the taste buds. And that, as they say is the crux of the matter, the master brewer, in this case Jon, is using his skills and taste buds to create something everyone will love. Some of his great creations haven’t made it to front of house yet as they are still being developed. Passion and creativity rules everywhere at ‘The Boot’. By now it was time for lunch and, having been shown the brewery I needed to sample some of the 13 ales! Obviously, that’s not practical so Jon just let me select one that I fancied from the bar. At this point I wished I had come on a horse because I could just have jumped on and said, “Home Trigger”. It seems to me that whatever your passion, you’re going to be very spoilt at ‘The Boot’, the gastronomic hidden gem capital of Mercia. 00
Restaurant Review – The Peacock at Rowsley
As we crossed the threshold I blushed a little as I suddenly recalled that my last visit to The Peacock at Rowsley, some years ago admittedly, was with a previous boyfriend who had impeccable taste and was the owner of a small hotel on Jersey. This visit was on a very wet April evening with my lovely husband, and, as we were shown into the bar where a fire roared in the grate, I felt the same sense of history in this beautiful old hotel. Situated on the A6 through Rowsley, The Peacock Hotel is a grade II listed former manor house built in 1652, and as part of the Haddon Estate it is presently owned by Lord and Lady Edward Manners. Dan Smith, a Michelin trained chef, has for the last 10 years with his team earned The Peacock a place in the top 10% of restaurants in the country with 3 AA Rosettes. Assistant manager Katie welcomed us and showed us into the bar which is like stepping back in time with its heavily leaded stone mullion windows and uneven flagged floors. Serving both a bar and à la carte menu, we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink while we made our menu choices and began to unwind after a challenging day. Here too we were served an ‘amuse bouché’ of roast butternut squash and blue cheese dressed with truffle oil, this was rich and intense in flavour with a side of beef tartare and pickled cucumber which really awoke the taste buds. Shown into the dining room by Oliver, the food and beverage manager, we were seated under the watchful eyes of Lord Robert Manners (the portrait of course), who was killed April 12 1782. As the room filled there was friendly chatter among some of the resident guests making a very convivial atmosphere. My starter of hand picked crab was mixed with delicate pink beetroot cured salmon with a little heat added by the horseradish, a classic accompaniment. My husbands’ spinach ravioli was soft and silky, filled with the soft yolk of an egg, with sweet little peas it sat on a butter and chive sauce. From a well-balanced selection of main dishes I chose the Goosnargh chicken, run through with wild garlic and with a crisp skin, it was beautifully moist. Circled by buttery leeks and morels it was served with a side of an individual chicken pie piped with soft potato. The soft texture of the morels against the chicken was delicious. The flavour of my husbands beef fillet and the rich beef cheek made him smile, it just fell apart. It was served with charred artichoke, spring cabbage and miso. A light and fresh citrus Greek yogurt and sorbet was served pre dessert as a palette cleanser. As well as a dessert menu there was also my choice, a ‘Tart of the day’ which was a lemon tart with a light, thin, buttery pastry shell and beautifully sharp lemon filling it had a thin brittle caramel top. The rhubarb and fromage frais dessert served for my husband was both a work of art visually and had a great balance of texture and flavours, I just couldn’t resist sneaking a taste. We took our coffee and delicate, handmade petits fours in the lounge, a quiet and relaxing area. We had enjoyed a really outstanding meal, beautifully prepared by a true artist, with flavours balanced with skill and care, using only the finest ingredients. The staff were both attentive but discreet, most of them having worked here for the last ten years creating a seamless team and well deserved fine reputation. Our evening was truly memorable in every respect, and it is abundantly obvious why The Peacock at Rowsley sits comfortably amongst our finest hotels. For reservations contact 01629 733518 or email reception@thepeacockatrowsley.com 00
