Dining Out – Harpurs, Melbourne
Harpurs Melbourne is a prime example of why Bespoke Inn’s five-strong lineup has become a tour de force in the culinary, bar, and hotel industries. Invited to see Harpurs Melbourne firsthand, we met General Manager Mark Nellist and Head Chef Daniel Wujkiewicz to learn what makes the venue so popular and to try and make a small dent in their delectable menu. After some gentle ribbing about my South Yorkshire accent and his Lancashire lineage (the grand battle of the Pennines ever rages on), Mark shared his journey. Following a brief voyage to South Wales, he arrived in March 2023 to become Harpurs Melbourne’s General Manager. Despite being a fairly recent addition, his impressive knowledge and loyalty to customers and staff are evident. Mark has overseen impressive events, from hosting a family gathering of 83 to managing bookings for 135 (and counting!) this December. He expects big things for Harpurs, and they’re on track to deliver. Harpurs remain in demand even during the quieter Monday–Thursday period, thanks to deals like two woodfire pizzas for £15.99 and small plates for £4 each from 12–3 pm and 5–9 pm Monday–Friday, and 12–5 pm Saturday. For the cost of living crisis, this is a welcomed addition and allows people to have some good food in a friendly environment, even on a shoestring budget. Takeaway options are also available, so you can enjoy a quick pint and still catch your favourite TV series. Head Chef, Daniel Wujkiewicz, started his role as a significant kitchen player back in 2010. Later cutting his teeth in Buckinghamshire, he became the head chef of an award-winning Italian kitchen. At Harpurs for two months so far, we expect that the end-of-year awards will shortly come pouring in. Well, Daniel certainly hopes so! As noted by Mark, The dishes between Harpurs and their sister restaurant, The Dragon in Willington, bear a consistency in their styles of cuisine. Ever the innovator, Daniel is already looking post-Christmas to keep the dishes refreshed. Keen to get things in motion, he aims to produce new weekly menu specials. He hinted at a possible duck breast and tantalising wine sauce combo, but his mischievous smile left a lot to be interpreted… Daniel has mastered the originals, yet isn’t afraid to shake things up. Seeking to introduce Melbourne to the wonder of Italian calzones, fresh from his wood-fired pizza oven, he similarly insists that none of the classics, like their crunchy fish cakes and a plethora of steak cuts, will be put to pasture. Harpurs sprawling location on the competitive Derby Road is a major draw, plus they seamlessly offer multiple atmospheres to cater for every customer. For a relaxed meal or family gathering, the upstairs seating area provides a quiet, cosy environment with contemporary brickwork walls and an exposed pizza-oven station, alongside rustic country pub vibes with soft pastel paints, wooden beams and more. For those wanting a more lively scene, the bar downstairs is always buzzing, complemented by a separate ground-floor restaurant for a more social dining experience in a modern setting. Along with exceptional food, Harpurs offers nine rooms: six on-site and three in a nearby house. Dare you stay for the champagne breakfast in the morning, or stick around for their great cocktail list? It’s 5 o’clock somewhere! The captious food critic will surely be dismayed as Harpurs culinary capabilities are truly a spectacle to behold. Fresh is what they stand by, including sourcing their meat from a close butcher, Owen Taylor, creating fresh dough for the pizza oven, and utilising the kitchen management tool, Procure Wizard, to ensure that all their vegetables are sourced from local suppliers. The majority of the intoxicants are from equally close proximities, including sourcing their wine and beer from Derby-based Majestic and award-winning Little Brewers Company. After chatting with the team, my partner and I sat upstairs in a pleasant spot, and indulged in sticky beef bao buns and chipotle-dressed calamari, steak and mushroom pizza and whale-sized fish and chips, and a selection of desserts Daniel declared we must try. Fair enough, he did say that some of the desserts require an entire day to make and trust us, a singular chef’s kiss doesn’t quite cut it. Looking ahead, they have set goals to continuously evolve, including further upgrades to the ground floor come January, and a re-imagined outside courtyard area for those warmer months. With its variety of atmospheres and top-notch food, Harpurs has become a staple of the Melbourne dining scene. Their only challenge? Getting people to leave! To book a table or learn about upcoming events, visitharpursofmelbourne.co.uk or call 01332 862134. Harpurs, 2 Derby Road, Melbourne, Derby, DE73 8FE 00
Restaurant Review – Kayi Mezze Grill, Mickleover
Experiencing a different culture’s dietary habits really broadens your horizons where the use of ingredients is concerned, some familiar and some not so. Kayi Mezze Grill, named after the owners two daughters, is based in Mickleover and features a mix of delightful Turkish and Syrian cuisine , refreshingly clean to the palette. But we will come back to the food later. Situated on the corner of Vicarage Road just off Uttoxeter Road in Mickleover, Kayi Mezze Grill has a crisp clean look from the outside and it just gets better as you walk though the door. The work on the restaurant was designed and carried out by owner Mr Ahmed Binsh who we were delighted to meet during the evening. The pale stone work, with vertical strip lighting built in, was evocative of a traditional Turkish restaurant, and the huge, white floor tiles sparkled cleanliness. Having been open for two years, with an obvious gap whilst the Covid pandemic raged through the country, the restaurant and takeaway is now in full swing. Dining with good friends, we received a warm welcome from MJ our host for the evening. Whilst we enjoyed our Morretti Zero beer, MJ was happy to go through the menu and explain how the dishes were all prepared from fresh produce all sourced locally, and many of the vegetables and herbs were grown in the owners garden, with the emphasise on organic produce wherever possible. Our dining companions had experienced Turkish food and were already keen fans. We needed a little help and were grateful for the descriptions on the menu. Behind us, and behind a surround of toughened glass, the chef was busily turning food over on a giant grill above glowing Peruvian, charcoal embers. It was a warm evening so we chose the sharing platter for 4, from the Mezze cold starters. The selection arrived with a thin, lightly cooked flat bread each, and then it was up to us to dip in to the selection of dishes. There was hummus, garnished with pomegranate and chickpeas, Mutabak and Muhammara with its mix of sweet and savoury, and hint of spices. Muttabal, my personal favourite, made from grilled Egg plant (Aubergine)blended with Tahini and spices, and Baba Ghanouch, again with egg plant as a core ingredient. The freshness of the ingredients, and oils used really stood out to me. MJ serve us a little extra course here of Halloumi; charcoal seared cheese made from a mixture of goat and sheep’s milk, and barbecued spring lamb ribs, marinated in special herbs and spices then roasted over the Peruvian wood charcoal grill. Grilled King Prawns in a signature marinate, left overnight before being smoked over Peruvian wood charcoal with a special sauce. Lamb Kofta was Esther’s favourite, tender ground spring lamb seasoned with in-house spices fused with onions and parsley, shaped into kebabs, and then smoked over Peruvian wood charcoal and served with a fresh salad. My choice was the chicken shawarma, a dish of succulent marinated chicken, layered on a vertical rotisserie where it’s slow-roasted in its own juices until perfectly tender and extra flavourful served on a flat bread along with rice and bulgur wheat and a side salad. A generous portion which was absolutely delicious. Meanwhile Brian was carefully de-constructing his Sea bass, which also was marinated overnight in herbs and spices and then smoke roasted over the Peruvian wood charcoal, whilst saying how fresh and succulent the white flesh was. True to form, my wife chose the grilled king prawns. Again these are slit along their back before being left overnight in Kayi Mezze’s signature marinade and then smoked over Peruvian wood charcoal and adorned with an in-house special sauce. Finally served with the freshest of salads and generous chunks of lemon. After such a lovely evening, we just needed a small taste of something sweet for dessert and Baklava was the perfect thing to share, with its chopped pistachio nuts and honey . With extensive experience gained from working all over the Mediterranean, Kayi Mezze Grill have created a restaurant where you can experience signature dishes, carefully chosen from a variety of regions, by their chefs. On reflection, I thought that this had been the perfect evening for my introduction to Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine, one which I truly enjoyed. I was impressed by the simplicity of the dishes, and how the fresh ingredients were enhanced by the light touch of added herbs and spices. Everything was cooked freshly as you ordered it, and as a bonus I also realised how very much healthier food prepared and served in this way is. All in all we had a fantastic evening and agreed that this was a place to revisit to explore more of the menu, to immerse ourselves in the Turkish and Syrian style of dining. Kayi Mezze Grill also provide a takeaway service and offer a discount if you collect. There is parking for a few cars behind the restaurant, with two free car parks in close proximity. Kayi Mezze Grill3 Vicarage Rd, Mickleover DE3 0EA.https://kayi-grill.co.ukTel: 01332 595861 00
