Dining In Derbyshire – Darley’s
Darley Abbey is a mill village just over a mile from the centre of Derby, on the bank of the river Derwent. On the other bank sits an area of historic, industrial heritage now part of the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage site. Approached from Alfreton Road, you turn along Haslams Lane and pass the Derby Rugby ground on your left before entering the heart of the mills area. The well-preserved buildings have changed little since the 1800s and so the sense of history here is palpable. Today many of the buildings have been re-purposed to focus on retail and relaxation. It was a beautiful summer evening and we were here to enjoy the pleasures of dining at Darleys Fine Dining Restaurant. With a great reputation, Darleys are in the 2022 Michelin Guide, have AA Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence 2022 and Tripadvisor Traveller’s choice Award 2022. The restaurant has views over the river and weir, and most of the tables enjoy this aspect. Taking advantage of its position, a decked area is perfectly situated to make the most of cocktails on a warm evening. The decor is modern but tasteful giving diners plenty of room. We received a friendly greeting and were quickly seated so that with chilled, crisp Chardonnay in hand we could take our time over the menu. My husband and I have very different tastes and yet I could easily predict his order, and knowing my love of fish, he could predict mine. Thankfully the menu isn’t extensive so you can have confidence that everything is freshly prepared, and ingredients are genuinely seasonal. They also care well for vegetarians. Chef’s amuse-bouche was served with butter and freshly baked sourdough and I detected a hint of caraway from the mix of seeds, this accompanied a tartlet filled with Ox tongue , peas and horseradish, a nice appetiser. The chalk stream trout, my choice for starter, was cubes of cured pink trout, delicately flavoured in a rich crab bisque with portions of melon and caviar. The hit of tangy lemon came through the fresh, clean flavours. My husband chose the Isle of Wight Tomatoes, in a ricotta sauce with slices of young courgette, baby basil leaves and crunchy smoked almond which added texture. Perfect for a warm evening. Pan-fried Cornish cod followed for me. It’s ages since I enjoyed such a beautiful piece of fish. White, fresh and perfectly cooked. The crisp samphire added a saltiness to the small potatoes and kohlrabi, and the mussel velouté had me reaching for my spoon to savour every drop. My husband preferring beef, ordered the short rib of beef. Although the waitress said this would be slightly rare, it was tender and moist without being pink. Served with layers of potato, a healthy portion of kimchi ketchup, kale and in its own juice, the beef really stood out as hero. Desserts were easy to choose from, and to be honest I could have had any… or even all of them! But the honey panna cotta won out, with a hint of lemon and spoonful of caramel buried within, it was picture perfect, a clean not overly sweet end to our meal. With a hot cup of fresh coffee, we drifted our way to the end of the evening. Darleys describe themselves as a fine dining restaurant, serving modern and European dishes. The chef and his team clearly have a set vision for the food on offer here which would sit equally well amongst some of London’s best restaurants. The setting is lovely and adds to the ambiance. The service is both friendly, efficient and courteous. The wine list is reasonably priced, with a good choice of cocktails… and the food, well it speaks for itself, beautifully presented using interesting seasonal ingredients, but not so unusual that it takes you out of your comfort zone. We thoroughly enjoyed our evening and look forward to returning soon. 00
Dining In Derbyshire – The Bulls Head, Holymoorside
On first glance, The Bulls Head appears your typical, traditional pub; four square it hunkers down comfortably in the centre of Holymoorside, a delightful village on the moor-side of Chesterfield. Just a scenic 20 minutes or so away from the Amber Valley, it’s an area I’m well acquainted with from my childhood and easily accessible. Through the old door the general bar area belies the restaurant beyond and the food on offer here. Please don’t underestimate the experience you are about to embark on, as it truly is a remarkable journey and one that would comfortably sit in a high-end London restaurant, but which we were to enjoy much closer to home. The restaurant area has a simple decor in deep muted shades, with wooden tables well-spaced. Greeted by the friendly smile of Sharron Stone the sommelier, we were shown to our table and drinks order taken. From here we embarked on our epic journey through the 9 courses of the special taster menu, Mark Aisthorpe, head chef and owner truly at the helm in the kitchen. You’d be forgiven for thinking the name is familiar as Mark has appeared on BBC’s 2022 Great British menu as runner up in the northeast and Yorkshire heat. Mark has also worked with Gordon Ramsey and Marcus Wareing at Clivedon House and Petrus, so has an impressive pedigree. Beginning with a selection of Canapes, the deconstructed chicken wing coated with a sticky BBQ sauce and sesame seeds was soft, succulent and a gentle start to awaken our taste buds, the finely chopped venison tartare was richer with a tangy citrus flavour mellowed by the crunch of the diced turnip and served in its own pastry case, cheese and pickled walnut gougères, delivered by one of the chefs Joe Stubbs, completed a perfect trio. Amie Foster, restaurant manager, gave us an excellent description of each course as it arrived, and certainly had a great understanding of every dish. The most delicious, warm malted bread arrived with quenelles of salted butter and marmite butter, wow what a simple idea but inspired. Then a small but perfectly formed potato topped with sliced baby leeks, sprinkled with tiny crisp and airy pork puffs was surrounded in a deep flavoured dulse sauce. Dulse is both very healthy as it’s packed with Iron and proteins, but also adds a rich saltiness. The following course and perhaps my most favourite was the hand dived King scallop; cooked to perfection with tiny brown shrimps, roe which popped in your mouth and a beautifully balanced sabayon sauce. Next, the shredded ham, finished with a warm egg yolk and brioche served separately, was followed by another outstanding fish course. West coast Bass, with a crisp skin and firm flesh found its traditional complement in an asparagus spear, but with the clean taste of sea vegetable fingers, samphire and mussels the wild garlic sauce took it to another level. Spring lamb with its caramelised skin and juicy pink centre was served with a jus and a morel mushroom whose nutty flavour partnered the meat. Rounding out the dish was a carrot and a pea puree. Finishing with a spectacular flourish Mark arrived and set up a side table for his performance, juggling liquid nitrogen, to produce a desert fitting to crown our evening… but I think rather than trying the impossible task of describing it, I will leave it a secret for you to discover for yourselves!! …and just when we were ready for a little something sweet a clever selection of dark chocolate desserts arrived, crunchy, cooling, smooth, intense and spongy all not overly sweet and on one plate…. just desert heaven!! You may wonder what Mark’s ethos is behind this imaginative menu, simply put it is local produce, fresh and in season alongside foraged ingredients, to produce a refined modern British Cuisine. This is not an evening to rush, the relaxed atmosphere at the Bulls Head slowed us down to enjoy each step of this exceptional culinary experience. Tasting each nuance of flavour, some familiar and some not so brought a unique experience. We would like to thank Mark and all his staff for a most delightful evening, and the tour of the newly refurbished bedrooms afterwards. His hard work, enthusiasm and undoubted talents have rewarded Derbyshire with an outstanding venue. 00
Restaurant Review – M.A.D.E @ No. 18
To spend 2 or 3 hours in one restaurant it has to be good. To spend the entire Friday evening at M.A.D.E.@No.18 it has to be exceptional and something different. It was early on a Friday evening that our taxi delivered us to M.A.D.E. @ No 18; a café-bistro at the top of the old market place in Alfreton. It has a unique style that is reminiscent of the fashionable bistros of the mid 1970s. It’s the place to enjoy scrumptious freshly made breakfasts, lunch with both traditional and Mediterranean dishes or afternoon tea. You can eat in the fully licensed cafe-bistro with its eclectic décor or dine alfresco on the terrace amid a cottage style garden. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, there’s a new venture to accompany their bistro style menu. We arrived at 6.30 in the evening to enjoy the bistro’s tapas and ‘take in a movie’. The interior of the bistro is deceptively spacious. We introduced ourselves to David, the owner, who showed us to a corner table where we could take in the atmosphere and study the tapas offerings. We nibbled on appetisers of olive oil, diced tomato and aioli on crispy toast while we lingered over our first glass of wine. Susan and myself chose 3 dishes each that we could share. They arrived in earthenware pots on 2 wooden platters. This is the sort of spread that you want to linger over. There was a dish of sliced, spicy Chorizo and cherry tomatoes in a honey and red wine dressing. This is a dish to be nibbled between sips of wine. Susan had ordered the calamari: 2 pieces of soft and succulent squid, dusted with flour and lightly grilled which was served with a Jerusalem artichoke purée. I’d selected the gambas al ajillo: seared prawns in a mild chilli and garlic oil. Full of flavour and very indulgent. Another of my selections was the albonbigas: meatballs in a smokey paprika based tomato sauce. A joint choice was the traditional Spanish dish of patatas bravas: potatoes served with a spicy sauce of tomato and mild chilli. Finally, every tapas has to have tortilla Espanola: a slice of a Spanish omelette. This generous portion was light and packed with the flavours of garlic, onion, potato and peppers. David was busy all evening; chatting to customers, dispensing wine and taking bookings for M.A.D.E. @ No 18’s very popular, mid-morning breakfast. There’s something magical about going to the cinema. The thought of enjoying a beautifully crafted piece of entertainment, surrounded by a few like-minded people, uninterrupted; all there and of one mind to enjoy the evening. As 8 o’clock approached we made our way, along with some of the other diners, to the ‘cinema’. With only 30 or so seats, split into 6 rows, the cinema isn’t large but the screen fills the end of the room and so occupies almost your entire field of vision. We settled in to our seats, re-claimed theatre seats from a London venue, with our popcorn and a bottle of chilled sauvignon blanc. There’s a lot of legroom between the rows; we had room for a narrow table to put our glasses on. This evening the film was Widows; a popcorn heist flick with a feminist soul. The original story was written by Lynda la Plante and serialised, many years ago, on ITV. Although the action in this up to date American version, has moved from London to Chicago director Steve McQueen has retained the original story’s concept of powerful female lead characters. There has been a screening of a diverse selection of films from a matinee showing of Mary Poppins Returns, aimed at a younger audience, to an early evening James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause and one of my favourite’s: the original Blade Runner, The Director’s Cut; another Friday evening treat; all parceled up and delivered in one place. It was 10.30 before we climbed back into our taxi. We’d enjoyed a memorable 4 hours of fabulous food, hospitality and entertainment. +30
Dining Out at Viva Restaurant
Viva restaurant is well situated in the middle of Matlock on Dale Road; being close to a car park just around the corner. We visited this restaurant and discovered an idyllic place to eat in and experience that special Italian dining cuisine at a very cost effective price… On entering the restaurant we immediately felt delighted that we had chosen this venue. Viva is a stylish, modern and glamorous restaurant which offers a traditional Italian and contemporary cuisine. We were greeted by a waitress and taken to our table. Looking around, the open kitchen is impressive and pristine; together with the carefully chosen wallpapers and sculptures it all creates a totally enjoyable different dining experience. We were struck by the hustle and bustle of the restaurant, even on a raining mid week evening the restaurant was busy. And soon we were to find out why… Having examined the extensive menu of traditional dishes my partner eventually (with the expert recommendation from our waitress) chose the Cozze al Vapore at £6.95. This delicious dish consisted of steamed mussels in a cream, lemon and garlic sauce. I went for the Funghi Dolcelatte priced at just £4.95. Also delicious – the button mushrooms were stuffed with the famous Italian Dolcelatte cheese, coated in breadcrumbs and then baked in the oven and served with ciabatta bread. For our main dishes, my partner chose the Filletto Pepe Verde at £19.95. His fillet steak was cooked to perfection and the flambéd sauce of black peppercorns, brandy, French mustard and cream beautifully complimented it. He really was enthusiastic and remarked that it was one of the best steaks he has ever had! The dish was served with a garnish and French fries. Equally looking too good to eat was my choice of pasta. I chose the traditional Salsa di Pollo at £11.25. This popular pasta dish consisted of diced chicken breast, mushrooms, onions, fresh herbs and a hint of pomodoro and garlic in a creamy sauce. All this was washed down with a glass of house red and a Peroni beer. The appetising substantial portions had completely filled us up and so to finish the evening off we just had a couple of coffees. In conclusion, all the dishes were dazzlingly presented and bursting with flavour and nothing was too much trouble. It’s so good to have an Italian restaurant on ones doorstep that is excellent value for money and very affordable. Children are welcomed at Viva and I noticed the kids menu; for £6.95 they can choose any pizza or pasta from the menu, just in a smaller size. A massive thank you to Saj and their team. We’ll be back very soon so watch this space. 00
Restaurant Review – The Sanam Tandoori Restaurant
Cooking in a traditional way has always been the priority at the Sanam on King Street Alfreton, and for the past 25 years they have stuck to that premise. Over that period of time they have seen restaurants come and go, some change hands. Their philosophy of providing quality food at a fair price has stood the test of time and they are immensely proud of their track record. The chef was trained in the art of blending spices by a leading international chef which explains the extensive and mouthwatering menu on offer at the Sanam. There’s everything on the menu you’d expect but straying onto the ‘chef’s specials’ section if you fancy something a little more exciting will really excite your taste buds. The sauces at the Sanam are rich in flavour and there’s plenty of substance to them. The Mirch Masala dish is full of strips of stir fried chicken with peppers, onions, tomatoes, ginger, garlic and a subtle tweek from the chef to add that special zing. The ginger is delicate in flavour and doesn’t overpower the meal. The blend of spices ensures a very balanced flavour. We always feel that you get what you pay for where food is concerned and the Sanam has that fine balance of quality food at a very reasonable price. Having dined regularly and had numerous takeaways from the Sanam it can be difficult to pick something new from the menu and not default to old favourites and so it was good to be able to chat to a chap who had come to fetch his takeaway and find out what he enjoyed. It was annoying to find that he had ordered the same as me! So no help there. I’m not a fish fan but the fish dishes at the Sanam are very popular and having taken the grandchildren along for an evening meal one the chef prepared a delightful salmon dish which they polished off with aplomb. Oh, they did have some fries too! The starters at the Sanam include regular favourites such as: Chicken Pakora, Daryayi Bazran served with a delicate mixed nut chat, fresh salmon marinated in fresh dill yoghurt, garlic and chefs special spices and roasted in a tandoor. Adraki lamb chops, juicy slices of lamb chops, marinated in garlic and spices, cooked in a tandoor and served with salad and sauce. Mains include:Jalfrezi Chicken a firm favourite of mine, the characteristic of this dish is the puree made of tomatoes, green peppers and onions which is then poured over the curry. Perfect. I’ve said this before in write ups on Indian restaurants that proper naan bread makes a lot of difference to a meal, and the Sanam specialise in them. They are cooked in a proper oven and are head and shoulders above the anaemic ones that are often passed off as naan. So we go to the Sanam confident in the knowledge that we will get what we enjoy and it will be well cooked, nicely presented, quality food. All in all a cracking night out is assured. Advanced booking is always a good idea. Call 01773 830690 00
Restaurant Review – The Poet & Castle
The demise of the local public house has been the subject of many newspaper articles; part of the ethos of the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) believes well-run pubs, whether in rural or urban areas, play a critical social role in UK culture as the centres of community life. CAMRA believes that the British pub is a uniquely wonderful institution. The 50,000 or so which remain offer a rich variety of drinking and social environments and contribute significantly to the sum of the nation’s happiness. One of these unique institutions was our destination for a midweek contribution to our happiness; a Wednesday evening in the Poet and Castle on the Market Place in Codnor, Derbyshire. Our taxi dropped us off in the car park at the rear of the pub. One of the first things we spotted was the large outdoor seating area with its extensive views over the fields. Perfect for a family on a warm Summer afternoon. The Poet and Castle is the 5th and latest pub to be owned by the Lincoln Green Brewing Company. The Company, started in 2012 by Anthony Hughes, takes its name from the colour of the woolen cloth associated with the legendary Robin Hood. What began in the garage of his home in Nottingham has grown to include a brewery in Hucknall and the 5 pubs; 4 in his home county of Nottinghamshire and The Poet and Castle in Derbyshire. The Company has a simple philosophy; they believe in ‘proper pubs’ and this is evident in the Poet and Castle. It’s a place with quiet corners. It has big comfy chairs in front of the log burner. It’s a meeting place for dog walkers. It’s somewhere to put the world to rights and for us, somewhere for a Wednesday evening meal. As the owners state ‘You know when you’ve entered a proper pub. It’s a sense, not a blueprint’. We were given a warm welcome by Clive, the manager who explained the Lincoln Green real ales on offer. Their 4 main brews are called Marion, Hood, Archer and Tuck, names associated with the famous outlaw of Sherwood Forest. While Sue chatted to a group of friendly dog walkers I decide to sample the Hood; the bitter. This is a proper bitter; it’s complex flavours and smooth finish are a reminder of how good ale used to taste and is a treat worth making a detour for. The food is pub grub and for that reason the menu does not run on for 4 or 5 pages. There are 4 starters to choose from: goats cheese and red onion flatbread, 2 homemade soups; tomato or leek and potato and mushrooms in a wine and garlic sauce served on toast. There are 7 main course meals which include 2 burgers (one venison and the other a veggie), fish and chips, a beef pie, ham and eggs and a red pepper tagliatelle; 4 of them are available in child portion sizes. We chose the mushrooms and a soup followed by the pie and fish and chips. Everything is freshly cooked. I placed our order with Clive at the bar. He made a note of it and dispatched it to the kitchen along with a glass of Marion light ale he had just pulled and added “That’s to make the beer batter for your haddock.” It doesn’t get more fresh than that. The mushrooms take centre stage in the generous starter. Sautéed mushrooms are served on toasted slices of baguette There’s just a hint of garlic in the creamy wine sauce but it doesn’t mask the delicate mushroom flavour. Toasted baguette also accompanied the fresh leek and potato soup; a soup that can be served in all sorts of shapes and sizes: rustic, chilled and in this instance creamed. The Poet and Castle version is carefully seasoned and uses the whole leek giving it a deep flavour. It’s finished with a swirl of cream to enhance the smooth presentation. I decided to try the lighter, more delicately flavoured Archer American pale ale with my homemade beef pie and its robust gravy made with their own porter; Tuck. The pie pastry was crisp, the triple cooked chips lived up to expectations and I could taste the ale in the tender beef pie filling. Susan’s fish was a fillet of haddock in a Marion beer batter. The white, flaky fish had cooked beautifully inside the crisp beer batter and again the triple cooked chips were delightful. It was served with mushy peas and a dish of tartar sauce. To round off the evening I sampled the Marion. This is a full bodied pale ale with a fresh, zingy aroma and comforting warm malt taste. Along with their real ale they also offer real cider, wines and spirits. There is lager, but not the mainstream brands. We came away with the impression that the Poet and Castle was in the great British tradition of proper pubs; a warm welcome, excellent beers and wines, good conversation and good old fashioned pub grub. 00
