Dining In Derbyshire – Darley’s
Darley Abbey is a mill village just over a mile from the centre of Derby, on the bank of the river Derwent. On the other bank sits an area of historic, industrial heritage now part of the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage site. Approached from Alfreton Road, you turn along Haslams Lane and pass the Derby Rugby ground on your left before entering the heart of the mills area. The well-preserved buildings have changed little since the 1800s and so the sense of history here is palpable. Today many of the buildings have been re-purposed to focus on retail and relaxation. It was a beautiful summer evening and we were here to enjoy the pleasures of dining at Darleys Fine Dining Restaurant. With a great reputation, Darleys are in the 2022 Michelin Guide, have AA Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence 2022 and Tripadvisor Traveller’s choice Award 2022. The restaurant has views over the river and weir, and most of the tables enjoy this aspect. Taking advantage of its position, a decked area is perfectly situated to make the most of cocktails on a warm evening. The decor is modern but tasteful giving diners plenty of room. We received a friendly greeting and were quickly seated so that with chilled, crisp Chardonnay in hand we could take our time over the menu. My husband and I have very different tastes and yet I could easily predict his order, and knowing my love of fish, he could predict mine. Thankfully the menu isn’t extensive so you can have confidence that everything is freshly prepared, and ingredients are genuinely seasonal. They also care well for vegetarians. Chef’s amuse-bouche was served with butter and freshly baked sourdough and I detected a hint of caraway from the mix of seeds, this accompanied a tartlet filled with Ox tongue , peas and horseradish, a nice appetiser. The chalk stream trout, my choice for starter, was cubes of cured pink trout, delicately flavoured in a rich crab bisque with portions of melon and caviar. The hit of tangy lemon came through the fresh, clean flavours. My husband chose the Isle of Wight Tomatoes, in a ricotta sauce with slices of young courgette, baby basil leaves and crunchy smoked almond which added texture. Perfect for a warm evening. Pan-fried Cornish cod followed for me. It’s ages since I enjoyed such a beautiful piece of fish. White, fresh and perfectly cooked. The crisp samphire added a saltiness to the small potatoes and kohlrabi, and the mussel velouté had me reaching for my spoon to savour every drop. My husband preferring beef, ordered the short rib of beef. Although the waitress said this would be slightly rare, it was tender and moist without being pink. Served with layers of potato, a healthy portion of kimchi ketchup, kale and in its own juice, the beef really stood out as hero. Desserts were easy to choose from, and to be honest I could have had any… or even all of them! But the honey panna cotta won out, with a hint of lemon and spoonful of caramel buried within, it was picture perfect, a clean not overly sweet end to our meal. With a hot cup of fresh coffee, we drifted our way to the end of the evening. Darleys describe themselves as a fine dining restaurant, serving modern and European dishes. The chef and his team clearly have a set vision for the food on offer here which would sit equally well amongst some of London’s best restaurants. The setting is lovely and adds to the ambiance. The service is both friendly, efficient and courteous. The wine list is reasonably priced, with a good choice of cocktails… and the food, well it speaks for itself, beautifully presented using interesting seasonal ingredients, but not so unusual that it takes you out of your comfort zone. We thoroughly enjoyed our evening and look forward to returning soon. 00
Dining in Derbyshire – The Curry Lounge, Somercotes
It was early on a Wednesday evening when we parked on the Market Place in Somercotes adjacent to the familiar restaurant entrance. The welcoming, contemporary designed foyer hadn’t changed but for one addition; in pride-of place, the wall facing the door was adorned with a large ceramic plaque. On it, in bold type, it reads Best Restaurant Awards 2022. The restaurant was awarded the prize for Best Indian & Bangladeshi Restaurant at the Curry Life awards in October last year. Curry Life is a British independent trade magazine for the Bangladeshi and Indian restaurants and takeaways in Great Britain. With over 300 reviews taken in to account the prestigious award was made for their top class food, excellent service and overall customer experience. We made our way into the restaurant and bumped in to Syed Hussain, owner of the Curry Lounge, and congratulated him on his fabulous achievement. Obviously proud of his award he showed us a video on his phone of the ceremony. We were shown to a table for two by the window and started to unpack our drinks. The Curry Lounge doesn’t have a licence to serve alcohol but there’s nothing to stop you bringing your own. There’s something a bit naughty about walking into a restaurant with your own favourite beer or wine clinking in a much used ‘bag for life’. Our waiter provided the appropriate glasses: one wine glass and one for beer. Plus a very essential bottle opener. The menu had several items ‘flagged’ as new and we decided to order one each of the kitchen’s latest creations. We started with pickles and poppadoms; part of the curry meal ritual. A smooth mango chutney, a refreshing chunky tomato salad and spicy dark amber tamarind dip accompanied the two huge poppadoms. Plus a smooth raita that was, at our request, to stay on the table. A platter of onion bhajis was the next course. So often with these little morsels of loveliness there’s too much gram flour and very little onion but these were full of sweet onion. Soft and pillowy in the middle and cracklingly crunchy on the outside. Accompanied with the sauce boat of raita I could have made a meal of them. From one of the new additions to the list of Curry Lounge signature dishes I chose the gulbahar lamb. It’s a mildly spicy dish that was loaded with succulent lamb. The mild sauce was studded with mushrooms, onion and green peppers and a sweet spicy note lingered on the palate. I ordered a bowl of pilau rice to go with the dish. However, when I saw the peshwari naan that Sue had ordered I was tempted to try it with the gulbahar. The naan was warm, soft and overflowed with coconut giving a lovely, slightly sweet flavour to the bread. As it turned out it was a different but perfect accompaniment to the spicy lamb. Susan had ordered special vegetable paneer korai; also on the list of new additions to the Curry Lounge signature dishes. It is a combination of fresh vegetables and paneer (cubed Indian cottage cheese) cooked in a tandoori sauce with onion, peppers and tomatoes and is served in a hot tandoor dish. It’s mid-range spicy and bursting with flavour. The fresh, green vegetables were tender and flavourful. The plain paneer is a perfect vehicle for any sauce but especially delicious when coated with a sauce of tandoor spices and yoghurt. The peshwari naan turned out to be equally delicious with the paneer korai. Next time we’ll skip the rice and order two naans. We’d had a wonderful evening with delicious food, attentive service and the pleasure of trying new dishes. The Curry Lounge, Market Place, Somercotes, Derbyshire. Tel 01773 528 588 00
Dining In Derbyshire – The Bulls Head, Holymoorside
On first glance, The Bulls Head appears your typical, traditional pub; four square it hunkers down comfortably in the centre of Holymoorside, a delightful village on the moor-side of Chesterfield. Just a scenic 20 minutes or so away from the Amber Valley, it’s an area I’m well acquainted with from my childhood and easily accessible. Through the old door the general bar area belies the restaurant beyond and the food on offer here. Please don’t underestimate the experience you are about to embark on, as it truly is a remarkable journey and one that would comfortably sit in a high-end London restaurant, but which we were to enjoy much closer to home. The restaurant area has a simple decor in deep muted shades, with wooden tables well-spaced. Greeted by the friendly smile of Sharron Stone the sommelier, we were shown to our table and drinks order taken. From here we embarked on our epic journey through the 9 courses of the special taster menu, Mark Aisthorpe, head chef and owner truly at the helm in the kitchen. You’d be forgiven for thinking the name is familiar as Mark has appeared on BBC’s 2022 Great British menu as runner up in the northeast and Yorkshire heat. Mark has also worked with Gordon Ramsey and Marcus Wareing at Clivedon House and Petrus, so has an impressive pedigree. Beginning with a selection of Canapes, the deconstructed chicken wing coated with a sticky BBQ sauce and sesame seeds was soft, succulent and a gentle start to awaken our taste buds, the finely chopped venison tartare was richer with a tangy citrus flavour mellowed by the crunch of the diced turnip and served in its own pastry case, cheese and pickled walnut gougères, delivered by one of the chefs Joe Stubbs, completed a perfect trio. Amie Foster, restaurant manager, gave us an excellent description of each course as it arrived, and certainly had a great understanding of every dish. The most delicious, warm malted bread arrived with quenelles of salted butter and marmite butter, wow what a simple idea but inspired. Then a small but perfectly formed potato topped with sliced baby leeks, sprinkled with tiny crisp and airy pork puffs was surrounded in a deep flavoured dulse sauce. Dulse is both very healthy as it’s packed with Iron and proteins, but also adds a rich saltiness. The following course and perhaps my most favourite was the hand dived King scallop; cooked to perfection with tiny brown shrimps, roe which popped in your mouth and a beautifully balanced sabayon sauce. Next, the shredded ham, finished with a warm egg yolk and brioche served separately, was followed by another outstanding fish course. West coast Bass, with a crisp skin and firm flesh found its traditional complement in an asparagus spear, but with the clean taste of sea vegetable fingers, samphire and mussels the wild garlic sauce took it to another level. Spring lamb with its caramelised skin and juicy pink centre was served with a jus and a morel mushroom whose nutty flavour partnered the meat. Rounding out the dish was a carrot and a pea puree. Finishing with a spectacular flourish Mark arrived and set up a side table for his performance, juggling liquid nitrogen, to produce a desert fitting to crown our evening… but I think rather than trying the impossible task of describing it, I will leave it a secret for you to discover for yourselves!! …and just when we were ready for a little something sweet a clever selection of dark chocolate desserts arrived, crunchy, cooling, smooth, intense and spongy all not overly sweet and on one plate…. just desert heaven!! You may wonder what Mark’s ethos is behind this imaginative menu, simply put it is local produce, fresh and in season alongside foraged ingredients, to produce a refined modern British Cuisine. This is not an evening to rush, the relaxed atmosphere at the Bulls Head slowed us down to enjoy each step of this exceptional culinary experience. Tasting each nuance of flavour, some familiar and some not so brought a unique experience. We would like to thank Mark and all his staff for a most delightful evening, and the tour of the newly refurbished bedrooms afterwards. His hard work, enthusiasm and undoubted talents have rewarded Derbyshire with an outstanding venue. 00
Restaurant Review – The Sanam Tandoori Restaurant
Cooking in a traditional way has always been the priority at the Sanam on King Street Alfreton, and for the past 25 years they have stuck to that premise. Over that period of time they have seen restaurants come and go, some change hands. Their philosophy of providing quality food at a fair price has stood the test of time and they are immensely proud of their track record. The chef was trained in the art of blending spices by a leading international chef which explains the extensive and mouthwatering menu on offer at the Sanam. There’s everything on the menu you’d expect but straying onto the ‘chef’s specials’ section if you fancy something a little more exciting will really excite your taste buds. The sauces at the Sanam are rich in flavour and there’s plenty of substance to them. The Mirch Masala dish is full of strips of stir fried chicken with peppers, onions, tomatoes, ginger, garlic and a subtle tweek from the chef to add that special zing. The ginger is delicate in flavour and doesn’t overpower the meal. The blend of spices ensures a very balanced flavour. We always feel that you get what you pay for where food is concerned and the Sanam has that fine balance of quality food at a very reasonable price. Having dined regularly and had numerous takeaways from the Sanam it can be difficult to pick something new from the menu and not default to old favourites and so it was good to be able to chat to a chap who had come to fetch his takeaway and find out what he enjoyed. It was annoying to find that he had ordered the same as me! So no help there. I’m not a fish fan but the fish dishes at the Sanam are very popular and having taken the grandchildren along for an evening meal one the chef prepared a delightful salmon dish which they polished off with aplomb. Oh, they did have some fries too! The starters at the Sanam include regular favourites such as: Chicken Pakora, Daryayi Bazran served with a delicate mixed nut chat, fresh salmon marinated in fresh dill yoghurt, garlic and chefs special spices and roasted in a tandoor. Adraki lamb chops, juicy slices of lamb chops, marinated in garlic and spices, cooked in a tandoor and served with salad and sauce. Mains include:Jalfrezi Chicken a firm favourite of mine, the characteristic of this dish is the puree made of tomatoes, green peppers and onions which is then poured over the curry. Perfect. I’ve said this before in write ups on Indian restaurants that proper naan bread makes a lot of difference to a meal, and the Sanam specialise in them. They are cooked in a proper oven and are head and shoulders above the anaemic ones that are often passed off as naan. So we go to the Sanam confident in the knowledge that we will get what we enjoy and it will be well cooked, nicely presented, quality food. All in all a cracking night out is assured. Advanced booking is always a good idea. Call 01773 830690 00
Restaurant Review – Santo’s Higham Farm
When was the last time you visited Santo’s at Higham Farm? I expect for many of you reading this it has been a little while, but please take a fresh look as Santo’s continues its heavy investment into refurbishing this beautifully positioned hotel. The latest Santo’s investment is in the kitchens bringing them right up to date with a refurbishment in excess of £130,000 with state of the art equipment, all adding to the efficiency and enabling the chef to spend time to beautifully create new and exciting dishes. Ray, the head chef, has known Santo for 26 years. As a 16 year old he worked with Santo and when Santo came to Higham Farm he asked Ray to join him. Through the years Ray progressed to the position of head chef. Ray left Higham to gain more knowledge and returned two years ago. Some of the current staff Ray has in his brigade have been at Santo’s over 15 years. The emphasis is very much on fresh local produce, with meat from local award winning butcher Owen Taylor and the vegetables sourced locally. Their aim is to produce everything in their own kitchen, from their beautiful selection of home made fresh breads baked daily, right down to churning their own butter! The cheese bread and wholemeal Stilton were a particular hit. Santo’s aim to cater for everyone. The early bird Monday Pizza menu is perfect for a night out with the family – with pizzas from £6.00, and the Sports Bar menu offers more traditional bar food. We were there to sample the new A la Carte Spring menu. This was put together over the last few weeks with input from all the chefs, and was tasted by the waiting staff to tweak the combinations and flavours. Already they are starting on their Summer menu to come up with new ideas and flavours! We went along to sample all the new spring menu and to be fair every dish was fantastic! For starter my personal favourite was ricotta ravioli, filled with simple basil, pepper and ricotta. It was served in a spring vegetable consommé, and drizzled with Scotch bonnet chilli oil which gave it a very subtle kick without being over powering. The fois gras is also a must, served with a truffle brioche with a caramelised top which gave it a little crunch and sweetness; Morel mushrooms and gooseberry relish accompanied this. My partner sampled the mackerel, which came with stripes of pickled cucumber and a touch of horseradish snow that was more like a sorbet that added an inspirational touch fusing the cucumber and mackerel together . The main course that stood out for me was the smoked corn fed chicken breast with confit potato, black garlic purée with roasted garlic, Iceberg lettuce and a butter sauce. The vegetarian option is also a little different – sautéed gem lettuce and arancini, one arancini is filled with asparagus and the other with crispy hen’s egg yolk served with feta cheese and confit tomatoes. A clear winner in my partners opinion was the 12 hour spiced belly pork with saag aloo, tikka foam and served with mini black pepper poppadums, put simply a deconstructed pork curry. The belly pork just melted away, and with flavours of Asia it was a great combination and one my partner highly recommends. If possible make room for a dessert. The lemon meringue with all butter puff pastry and lemon curd is a perfect sweet but sharp dessert with to finish your meal. The aerated chocolate and popcorn ice cream with salted caramel and peanut brittle honeycomb is fantastic too if you have a sweet tooth. Each dish is exquisitely presented – showing the care and detail they put into each component. If Santo and Roma, the hotel manager, were out to impress, then I can honestly say they’ve succeeded. The food excelled, the staff were trained to silver service level; friendly and helpful. Santo’s at Higham Farm is truly on the ‘foodies’ map , whether you’re looking for a meal to help you through the working week, some where to take the family, a quiet meal for two or a special occasion celebration. With ample parking and reasonable prices, their new spring menu fired our imagination and we know it will yours too. 00
Eating Out – The Dog Inn, Pentrich
Many years ago, before man had walked on the moon or The Beatles had got together, one of the simple highlights of a warm summer Sunday evening was to walk with my brother and our parents to The Dog at Pentrich. Our route was via Lowes Hill, Hammersmith, Asher Fields (no A38 in those days) and in to the village. The stroll was timed to put us outside The Dog at precisely 7pm; the time local licensing laws permitted public houses to open on Sunday evenings. Too young to enter the pub, me and my brother would sit outside on a low wall, bottle of Vimto in one hand and a bag of crisps in the other. Our most recent evening visit to the Dog Inn was not going to be for Vimto and crisps but to discover what the new chef, Adam, was offering on the completely re-styled menu. The Dog Inn has changed dramatically over the years; it’s larger; the main extension houses the dining area and has a contemporary interior but still retains many of its period features. It also boasts a wood-burning stove. A welcome site on a cold January night. Jane who, from the start of the New Year, has taken over running the front of house met us. This is a family affair; Jane along with her husband Graham run the bar and restaurant and Chef Adam is their son. Adam has worked in several well-known local restaurants and, until returning to Pentrich, was head chef at one of Sheffield’s top eateries. Some things change for the better and it was a delight to see the array of gins that are now on offer from ‘Bathtub’ through to ‘Rhubarb and Ginger’. Sue ordered a G&T made with the latter. It was served in a long stemmed copa glass which is shaped to enhance the botanicals in the gin. And some things don’t change; I ordered a pint of good old-fashioned Bass and it didn’t fail to delight. We sat and chatted in the cosy bar till our table was ready. Sue started with the soup of the day; a silky, smooth comforting leek and potato with house-baked focaccia; a pillow of soft dough laced through with olive oil infused sundried tomatoes. I chose the salt and chilli squid with a toasted sesame Asian style ketchup. Adam had made a change to the menu and the salad part of the dish was mostly fine strands of mooli. This cool, mild radish provided a counterpoint to the tempura batter on the squid and the hint of mild chilli in the ketchup. This is an ever-evolving menu as I witnessed when my main arrived with spinach; a welcome addition to the rich flavour of the slow cooked marinated blade of beef and the refreshing savoury note of the smooth celeriac fondant. Set on a bed of tangy white onion purée it was accompanied by sliced chestnut mushrooms and just the right amount of deep, dark real ale sauce. A salty note was provided by the crispy cooked pancetta. The plating was thoughtfully balanced and presented a visual feast. For her main Sue chose an 8oz rump steak with a peppercorn and whisky sauce; if there is a grill section to any menu it will always be her first choice. All the steaks are served with, chunky chips, Portobello mushroom, confit tomato, beer battered onion rings and a watercress salad. The steak was grilled beautifully; just the right amount of charring on the outside and still pink on the inside. Throughout the meal we never reached for any extra seasoning. After our unhurried starter and main we had a little room left for desserts; Sue chose the ice cream and I chose the lemon parfait. The ice cream was a trio of flavours, decorated with shards of French meringue, and served with raspberries, blueberries and a buttery, homemade shortbread biscuit. The parfait was served with sherbet, lemon curd and toasted almonds and again decorated with the French meringue. The Dog has a varied and quite extensive bar snacks and meals menu, served till 3pm in the afternoon and 9pm in the evening, which we will be returning to try. There are around 30 wines to choose from ranging from easily affordable whites and reds to some special occasion champagnes. But I still have a soft spot for those warm summer evenings of the late 1950s with a bottle of Vimto. 00
