Cromford owes its birth to Richard Arkwright, founder of the water-driven cotton spinning frame, one of the leading inventions of the Industrial Revolution. Harassed by home-based cotton spinners and weavers in his native Lancashire, in 1771 he opened his first mill, using the convenient power of the nearby River Derwent, close to the Crom Ford, a name that was taken by the factory village he built to accommodate his operatives. Later on he was awarded a knighthood and died an extremely wealthy man – a man who once offered to pay-off Britain’s national debt from what he claimed was ’petty cash’.
Developed as aself-contained village, Cromford provided all the amenities necessary for life in what was then a remote corner of Derbyshire. It had every available kind of shop, ranging from the proverbial butcher and baker, to haberdashery and even traditional blacksmiths and leather workers to cater for the day to day needs of the village and surrounding farms. Health problems were also catered for by an early version of the chemist’s dispensary.
In order to protect it from unwelcome disturbance, the mill became more like a fortress when viewed from outside; guarded by narrow windows rather like gun-slits, and certainly no windows or unlocked doors were accessible from street level.
A reasonably benevolent employer, at least by the standards of the time, Sir Richard as he became, and his later sons, gave Cromford its church and founded a school teaching the basic three r’s. North Street, part way up the hill towards Wirksworth was built to both accommodate textile workers, but also provide space for traditional stocking-frame knitters of the fashionably Derby-ribbed stockings. Stocking frame knitters traditionally required the best possible light for their work. To suit all needs, the knitters worked in specially adapted upper rooms, each house connected to its neighbour by an opening in the adjoining walls. North Street runs roughly east-west, giving opposite sides of the street a fair share of available sunlight, morning and afternoon.
As the fame of Arkwright’s invention spread far and wide, studied by visitors from all over Britain and Europe, it became necessary to provide some form of high-class accommodation. His answer was to build what became the Greyhound Inn beside Cromford’s market square.
In later years Cromford was linked to the countrywide canal network, when a branch of the Trent and Mersey Canal reached the village. There was also an ill-fated attempt to take this canal over the limestone moors to Whaley Bridge, but lack of a reliable water supply doomed the plan. However, by using canal engineering techniques in the design, one of the earliest railways connected the Derwent Valley to Manchester, the leading light of the burgeoning cotton empires.
This walk starts by exploring the narrow back streets of Cromford, before climbing across flower-filled meadows to reach the first of the inclines lifting the railway high above the surrounding countryside. Dominated by Black Rocks, a rugged gritstone outcrop above Sheep Pasture Incline, which is the first section of the High Peak Railway, connects it to the Midland Main Line.
The path across Cromford Meadows follows part of High Peak Trail and also the Midshires Way long distance path. Hereabouts, our path route goes under Sheep Pasture Incline about half way between High Peak Junction and the stone tower that once held the first of the series of winding engines along the High Peak Railway. A forest track is followed across the wooded hillside as far as a footpath junction off to the right. This is followed as far as another path junction where a right turn leads to delightfully named Wigwellnook Farm. Its access drive is followed beyond the farm, down to a minor road with wide ranging views. A right turn here for a couple of hundred yards or so, reaches a footpath climbing to the right, up into woods surrounding the gritstone outcrop of Black Rocks. Here a nature trail is followed, winding below the crags and down to the car park for a section of the High Peak Line. A path on the opposite side of the car park drops down to the Cromford to Wirksworth road where a right turn leads back into Cromford.
THE WALK :: THE WALK :: THE WALK ::
The walk starts and finishes opposite the Greyhound Inn beside Cromford Market Place. It is easily reached from the canal terminus wharf car park beyond Arkwright’s Mill.
Walk up the Cromford Hill road as if heading towards Wirksworth, heading for North Street. Wander the twisting route of the head of a series of streets, always avoiding the main road and its traffic.
Continue as far as Baker’s Lane and turn left, following the lane to its end.
Leave the lane and join a field path crossing the broad grassy slopes of Cromford Meadows. Pause now and then to admire the views along the Derwent Valley. Sir Richard Arkwright’s Willersley Castle stands proudly at the foot of a limestone crag. He had had it built for his retirement, but unfortunately it was badly damaged by fire and he died of old age before it was completed. High Tor stands proudly near the head of the gorge and the Heights of Abraham are opposite – you can reach it by cable car from the bottom station close to Matlock Bath Station on the Derby/Matlock railway line.
Ignoring any side paths to the left or right, go forwards towards the High Peak Railway’s Sheepwash incline. The line was opened in 1831 and the winding house is just about visible at the top of the incline to your right.
Follow the path, going under the incline and then out into mature pine woods.
Climb for about 150 yds up to a forest drive and turn left along it.
After roughly a quarter of a mile look out for footpaths on either side of the drive. Turn right on to the uphill path.
Walk as far as a crossing of two paths and turn right.
Follow this path for almost half a mile as far as the outbuildings of Wigwellnook Farm.
Go forwards and then gently downhill along the farm access drive.
On reaching the narrow road, turn right along it and walk for a quarter of a mile, as far as a slight left-hand bend. Look out for a footpath sign on the right. Leave the road and follow the path.
Continue along this path following the path, steeply up into the pinewoods, all the time aiming towards a hilltop radio mast.
Go downhill from the mast, following the path towards, then below Black Rocks, as far as the trail car park. There was once an extensive lead mine at the foot of the rocks. Remains of the mine engine’s chimney and a few other buildings can be viewed with care. A kiosk selling home-made snacks is to the right, next to the public toilets.
Cross the car park and follow a woodland path, downhill towards the main road.
Turn right along the road and walk downhill, back into Cromford village.
USEFUL INFORMATION:
A moderate 4mile (6.43km) walk with one 530ft (162m) climb. Breath-taking views at several points along the way.
RECOMMENDED MAP:
1:25,000 scale Ordnance Survey Explorer Map OL24. The Peak District, White Peak Area.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT:
Trains from Derby
PARKING:
Long term parking very limited in Cromford. Better space is available next to canal wharf beyond Arkwright’s Mill.
REFRESHMENTS:
Greyhound Inn beside Cromford market place.
Canal wharf café.
Café in Arkwright’s Mill visitor centre.
Kiosk beside the Black Rocks car park, sells homemade snacks.
