Standing at 850 feet above sea level on an isolated hilltop, Riber Castle, to give it its acknowledged title, has dominated Matlock’s eastern skyline ever since John Smedley built it in 1862. His idea was to make it the de-lux version of the spa hotels springing up around the town, venues of places offering accommodation for those taking part in his ‘water cure’.
Visitors from all stations of society came to this attempt to copy a European spa such as Baden Baden in order not simply to drink the waters, but to be subjected to high pressure hosepipes blasted by evil-minded operatives, wielding hoses aimed at various parts of the victim’s anatomy. This rather curious method of health improvement, enjoyed a short-lived popularity until changes in attitude and two world wars brought about its demise. With its departure, Matlock took advantage of the spas. Some became nursing homes and others developed as apartments; the main one found a use as the headquarters of Derbyshire County Council.
Smedley first had the idea of his ‘water cure’ when he was in recovery following a nervous breakdown. Part of his cure was time spent at one of the European spas. Feeling much better after the spell of being sluiced by the Germanic system of being mauled with powerful jets of water, he came home with the idea of turning the tiny market town of Matlock into the spa of dreams. Already a successful businessman, owning a garment knitting factory in Lea Mill that still flourishes, he decided to use his captive team of employees as guinea pigs in order to try out his new cure-all ideas. There is no record of his employees’ willingness or otherwise to take part in his experiments, but, as none of them appear to have suffered more than a loss of their dignity, they did at least form the basis of those who came for this so-called cure.
Smedley was so successful that his fortunes grew and he was able to encourage his senior management to open subsidiary branches around the town, and even sponsor the building of a cable-hauled tram that climbed Bank Road from Crown Square in the centre of Matlock, conveniently near the railway station serving trains on the London to Manchester main line. All that is left of the long-abandoned cable car, is the slight widening of the street about half way up the hill, where trams could pass; the steam engine powering the cable was housed in the building now used as a car workshop at the top of Bank Road where it joins Wellington Street. He persuaded his senior employees to open satellite establishment. All of those satellites together with the main which is now DCC’s headquarters, have been put to other uses in recent times, ranging from care-homes, to luxury apartments.
John Smedley decided to build his main feature Riber Castle, not just as a luxury spa hotel, but as his home. Although the pretentious towers of this mock-citadel act as vantage points for views along the valley and, one must suspect, it was where he could keep an eye on the activities of his workforce in Matlock and Lea, both of which can be clearly seen from Smedley’s eerie. It was to become the major building in a substantial group of medieval buildings which had stood there and in fact still do, since before the 17th century.
Unfortunately his plan to build Riber Castle as a super hydro came to nothing, due to one simple yet overlooked fault – the builders couldn’t find sufficient water needed for the complex equipment his plan envisaged. As a result it became where Smedley spent his last days. The place seems to have been dogged by bad luck ever since; it became a minor public school for boys, then during World War 2 large quantities of sugar were stored in rooms where Victorian ladies and gentlemen once took their ease. In more recent times its ruins became a European wildlife zoo, where locally bred European lynx were exported to a Spanish national park. Their transfer was carried out by the RAF, using lynx helicopters! The latest scheme intended to preserve the future of the castle is to develop it as a luxury set of apartments, complete with a helicopter landing pad. Only time will tell if this scheme will be the success its planners envisage.
This short walk in the brief but steep climb up to Riber passes through much of Matlock’s history. Starting at the medieval bridge, then moving on past the shelter that once stood at the tram terminus, the walk moves on by way of award winning Hall Leys Park that still holds the ambience needed for gentle exercise, or admiring the flower beds full of colour each summer. Where there was once a cycle race-track, youngsters can enjoy the thrills of the new track.
Following jitties through Knowleston Place, the walk passes one of Matlock’s two flour mills now finding fresh uses. The mill stream that once powered their grind-wheels is followed as far as the cluster of buildings at the foot of Lumsdale. Next and after crossing the Alfreton road, a steep path climbs up to Riber’s cluster of medieval stone houses; its castle dominates the view along the Derwent valley, from a glimpse of High Tor’s limestone crags, to Masson Hill across the gorge. The walk leaves this ancient view by dropping steeply down to Starkholmes and then a riverside track will take us back into Hall Leys Park and the centre of Matlock.
THE WALK
From Crown Square in the centre of Matlock, follow the riverside track through Hall Leys Park as far as the side road beyond the children’s play area.
Following Bentley Brook, go past the houses of Old Matlock and turn right along the main road.
Cross over at the pedestrian crossing and turn right. Follow the main road, over the turning for Chesterfield and continue as far as the last houses.
Bear left into the side road and then right to follow the mill stream and group of modern houses close to the old flour mill.
Turn right and then bear left on to oddly named Smuze Lane and walk up to the main road.
Cross the main road with care, aiming towards the last cottage before open fields to its right.
Go through a stile on the left of the cottage and begin to climb steeply up the field, crossing two boundary walls along the way.
Having just crossed the second boundary, walk on for about twenty yards and go to the right where the path forks and join a farm track.
Turn right along the track and follow it into Riber hamlet. The castle makes an ideal aiming point alongside pleasant stone houses built in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Turn sharp right on to a track passing the rear entrance to Riber Castle and begin to walk downhill on a gradually steepening path.
Using stone stiles where indicated, walk downhill for a little over a quarter of a mile, crossing a farm track along the way.
With a school on either side, the path reaches the road through Starkholmes village.
Turn right and walk downhill along the road.
When on the road, with the parish church in sight, go to the left, down a roughly metalled track descending towards the railway line.
Go under the railway bridge and turn immediately right, alongside the River Derwent. Pass under the railway viaduct.
The riverside path bears right beneath the limestone crags of Pic Tor.
When the path reaches a side stream – Bentley Brook, cross over by the narrow footbridge and turn left.
Follow the road for a few yards until it turns right by the entrance to the Hall Leys Park.
Follow the riverside walk all the way back to Matlock’s Crown Square. The park café selling drinks and light meals is on the far side of the park to your right beyond the boating lake.
USEFUL INFORMATION
USEFUL INFORMATION:
A short but breath-taking 4 mile (6.4 km) walk along good paths; one 756 foot (230 metre) climb.
RECOMMENDED MAP:
1:25,000 scale Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map, White Peak area. Sheet OL24
PARKING:
Public car park near Matlock Railway Station.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT:
Buses and trains from Derby.
REFRESHMENTS:
Choice of wide range of pubs, cafes and restaurants in Matlock.
