When the civil engineer William Jessop and his associate Benjamin Outram finished building the Cromford Canal. While they were linking the expanding industries of the Derwent Valley to the Midlands, it was soon realised that if the canal was continued in a northerly direction, it would open the burgeoning new cotton industry to markets around and beyond the Trent Valley, and vice versa for mutual growth.
The original idea of continuing the canal across the limestone moors and linking with the Peak Forest Canal at Whalley Bridge, was soon dropped for the simple reason that the linking canal north from Cromford would have to climb almost 1000 feet across the comparatively waterless limestone uplands of the White Peak. Even then the canal mentality still held sway and following an Act of Parliament dated 2nd May 1825, permission was granted to build a 33mile long railway, still following the canal pattern, costing an estimated £32,880, one of the earliest railways built soon after the opening of the Stockton and Darlington Railway.
Permission to build what became known as the Cromford and High Peak Railway, was awarded to Josias Jessop, the second son of William Jessop, the canal engineer responsible for the design and building of the Cromford Canal. As Josias Jessop had been trained in canal engineering, it is hardly surprising that his railway was designed as though it was a dry canal. Rather than go round or underneath hills, the route climbed on steep gradients, with trains hauled up and down by cables powered by stationary steam engines. Still thinking in canal terminology, stations were called wharfs and the inclines took the place of canal locks. There are several sharp bends such as the one at Gotham where the track turns through ninety degrees in less than a hundred yards. Side branches served the small quarries dotted along the line’s route.
One of the inclines, that at Middleton Top where this walk starts, has a well preserved winding engine which is frequently ‘steamed’ on advertised holiday dates. Although rolling stock is no longer hauled up and down the incline, there is sufficient track still giving a clear indication of the mechanics of this method of climbing the local hills. It is also possible to admire the handiwork of local stone masons who laboriously created the stone sleepers which carried the original track before being replaced by timber. There is a section of the original track and its original stone sleepers on display outside the Information Centre at Middleton Top car park where the walk starts.
While Middleton Top Incline is well known, there were others along the way. Hopton was the next incline, but its winding gear was removed when locomotives became powerful enough to climb the gradient without assistance. In later years the Cromford and High Peak Railway made a link with the mainline by way of a side track into Buxton from Harpur Hill. This diversion removed the need for an incline down to Bunsall Cob and the Goyt Valley from the top of Long Hill. Two other inclines on either side of Whaley Bridge station were abandoned.
This is an easy walk with wide ranging views across the local countryside. On the first leg of the walk, the view to your front across Middleton Moor looks along the Derwent Valley and across the Via Gellia towards Bonsall and Matlock’s limestone crags of High Tor. When the path across the grassy moor reaches a side track where the route turns left, the strange looking green fencing opposite, with its stern notices to keep out, is thought locally to be a long-term trial of fencing used to surround open prisons. The structure is even illuminated at night, making an eerie glow that has led to talk of UFOs flying nearby. So, the best advice is to obey the warning, and Keep Out!
From the turning, the way follows a partly trackless way over pasture enjoyed by dairy cows. Bearing left, a cart track soon develops, swinging downhill to the left as far as an abandoned dairy farm. A gate marks access to the High Peak Trail. Turning left here the way back to the Information Centre and Car Park is one of ever widening views south into Leicestershire and beyond. Wirksworth parish church spire is visible below and slightly to your left, while beyond and marked by radio masts, is the last fling of Pennine Gritstone at Alport Height.
USEFUL INFORMATION:
A 2½mile (4km) easy walk with little or no steep ascent, over grassy meadows well known for their wild flowers including orchids. Suitable for young children. One slightly difficult stile.
RECOMMENDED MAP:
1:25,000 Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map – White Peak, Sheet OL24
PUBLIC TRANSPORT:
6.1 Derby to Matlock service as far as Rise End, Middleton-by-Wirksworth. Walk uphill past the Rising Sun Pub on the Ashbourne Road. Go under the railway bridge and then turn right along the lane signposted to Middleton Top.
PARKING:
Beside Middleton Top Information Centre or on its nearby field.
REFRESHMENTS:
Tea and coffee at the Information Centre. The Rising Sun back down the Ashbourne/Cromford road has a good range of real ales. Home cooked food a speciality – all at reasonable prices.
THE WALK :: THE WALK :: THE WALK ::
Level with the cycle hire office, cross the trail and climb the short flight of stone steps and then bear right at the top. The engine house and driving wheel for the cable, once capable of hauling trains up and down Middleton Incline.
After a yard or two, bear left beside a part ruined limestone wall and follow it gently uphill on to the grassy moor’.
Continue to walk, still uphill until you reach a horse rider and pedestrian stile. Cross by striding over the anti-motor cycle barrier. Turn left on to a rough farm track. The depression below and to your right was caused when the roof of a limestone quarry gave way. Much of the stone quarried below ground was valued for War Grave markers due to its fine unblemished texture.
Follow the track, through a gate and then bear right across a flower-filled grassy meadow. Join a farm track.
As the ground begins to descend, bear left with the track and swing hard left, past the abandoned dairy of a nearby farm.
Follow the now steadily improving track until it reaches the High Peak Trail, on part of the Cromford and High Peak Railway.
Turn left on to the trail and go through a pedestrian gate. Follow the level surface of the trail all the way back to Middleton Top Information Centre. There are several bench seats alongside the trail, where weary limbs can be rested, and especially somewhere to admire the expansive view to the south. Evenings are especially attractive, when the setting sun illuminates the countryside near and far.
